Fish soup (psarosoupa) is among the most traditional Greek soups and a cherished favourite in many homes along the Cretan coast. In the region of Crete, and particularly in the author’s family, fish soup is not an everyday dish but one prepared on special occasions — especially during the period of the Evangelismos feast when fish is both permitted and celebrated.
For many families in Crete, fish soup comes before the rest of the meal and has its own ritual and memories: it is the first course at a shared table, followed by freshly prepared fish cooked in other ways. In the author’s household, the fish soup made by her mother and grandmother is remembered fondly by grandchildren who often compare it to any other they have tasted.
The recipe below reflects this traditional way of preparing psarosoupa — using fresh fish, seasonal vegetables, and a classic egg-and-lemon finish (avgolemono).
Ingredients
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About 1.5 kg fish (preferably assorted types — often grouper (synagrída), dentex (sfyrída), cod and a red fish of about 500 g each)
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5–6 carrots
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5–6 medium fresh courgettes (or more if small)
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3 large potatoes
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1 bunch celery (5–6 large stalks with leaves and stems)
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2 medium tomatoes
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1 cup olive oil
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3 large onions
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½ cup rice
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2 eggs
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⅓ cup lemon juice
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Salt
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Pepper (optional)
For serving:
Olive oil, lemon juice, salt and optionally a little mustard for the cooked fish.
Method
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Clean the fish — remove scales, entrails and gills — and rinse well. Salt them and squeeze the juice of one lemon over them; cut the lemon peel into pieces and place it inside the fish. Refrigerate while preparing the soup.
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In a large pot, add about 2 litres of water and sliced onions. Add the carrots and whole courgettes (scored into halves or quarters).
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When the vegetables begin to boil, add the potatoes cut into large slices, the tomatoes, celery and olive oil. Salt and cook until the vegetables are somewhat softened — about 20 minutes, adjusting time for fish size.
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Add the fish. Traditionally, each fish is wrapped in a piece of cheesecloth or a silicone net before placing in the pot; this helps avoid bones in the soup. Add water if needed to cover all ingredients. Boil until the fish is cooked through — about 20 minutes for half-kilo fish.
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Remove the fish with a slotted spoon along with any whole vegetables you wish to keep whole. Remove the cloth and the bones from the fish.
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Allow the remaining vegetables to cook a little longer so they soften fully. Mash them either directly in the pot (if safe) or in a blender with small amounts of broth, or use a traditional purée mill.
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Return the mashed vegetable broth to the pot — if it becomes too thick, add water — and bring to a boil. Add the rice, adjust salt and stir so it does not clump. Cook for 10–15 minutes until the rice is tender but still slightly firm.
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Meanwhile, beat the eggs. Gradually add the hot soup liquid to the beaten eggs en thread and lemon juice. Then pour the egg-lemon mixture back into the pot, stirring continuously. Warm gently for half a minute and remove from heat.
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Prepare lemon oil by whisking lemon juice with olive oil (ideally early-harvest) in a ratio of 1 part lemon to 2 parts oil with a little salt. A small amount of mustard may be added if desired.
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Serve the soup in bowls with the cooked fish and vegetables on a platter, drizzled with the lemon oil, allowing each person to take the portion they prefer.
Notes (Traditional Tips)
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The eggs are not separated here to avoid too frothy a texture; this also explains why fewer eggs are used than one might in meat soups. Many do not prefer fish soup avgolemono very thick.
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A fasting version using alevrolemono (lemon mixed with flour) is also traditional in some families.
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Rice quantity can be adjusted to taste — some prefer less rice in the soup.
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If fish of different sizes are used, add the larger ones first and the smaller ones later; very large fish may be cut in two.
